The majority of zone valves will also contain a manual lever which can also be useful when it comes to testing your system. Ensuring that your zone valves continue to work correctly is important. The most common issue is that the valve itself has become stuck. A suitably qualified heating engineer may be able to fix it or the valve may need replacing. A faulty thermostat could also be causing problems. If the thermostat is reading an incorrect temperature, it could prevent the valve from heating the room as it detects that the room is already warm enough.
Finally, the zone valve could have a leak. This rubber seal can degrade over time and allow some water through. In some cases, a new seal could be fitted. However, in more serious cases, the valve may need replacing. You should get advice from your heating engineer about which route is the best to take.
Turn all the radiator thermostat valves in one zone up to full usually the number five. This means that every radiator valve in that zone should now be allowing hot water through.
Wait for 30 minutes, then check each of your radiators by hand. They should all be hot. Solar panels can lower your energy bills but are they worth the cost? Viessmann reveals whether solar panels are worth it in this handy guide. Trying to find out whether your gas boiler is Gas-Safe registered? Discover how to find this information with Viessmann. Welcome to Viessmann United Kingdom! It looks like you might not be in the UK? The products and services presented on this page may not be available in your country; find your local Viessmann website below.
Viessmann United States. Answer a few questions and find the heating system that's best for you. Find a product, get a quote. How to Bleed a Raditor. We'll check that next. Simple test for shorted thermostat wires: How to test the TT wires for a short together. Disconnect the thermosat from the wires at the wall and leave the two TT wire ends apart - not touching Disconnect the thermosat wires at their other end, that will be at a zone valve OR at a circulator pump relay if you don't have zone valves; leave the two ends apart - not touching.
Then use a DMM or VOM in OHMS mode to see if there is continuity between the two wires - check both pairs of ends - if you see anything other than infinite resistance then the wires are shorted together somewhere enroute. Thermostat wires that are shorted together are functionally equivalent to the thermostat calling for heat forever.
See inspectapedia. Having some trouble with one of my zones shutting off. Changed the thermostat and still won't stop. Any ideas to check?
I am adding a third zone basement to my oil fired hot water baseboard heating and have it all planned as far as the plumbing is concerned. The add-on heating zone will have it's own 24V zone valve so will require a wall mounted thermostat. I'm only looking for heat so I believe a 2 wire thermostat is sufficient. My other two zones have their own valves and thermostats and the wiring at the valves is all connected with wire nuts and doesn't make any sense to me.
I guess my question is, can I just connect my new valve and thermostat directly to the aquastat terminals that "appear" to power the other valves and thermostats? If so, is there anything I need to be aware of, like possibly wiring it backwards and frying something? If I can just add the new "loop" directly to the aquastat, in what order are the connections made?
Example, aquastat to one connection at valve, 2nd connection at valve to one connection at thermostat, other connection at thermostat back to aquastat? If you need me to provide more detail on the types of thermostat, aquastat and zone valve I am using I can. My zone valve has two red wires and two yellow wires.
The instructions seem to indicate that I only use the yellow wires and the red wires were for auxiliary, whatever that is. Would much appreciate your input. Will I think this will help clear things up a little for wiring a 3rd heating zone using a zone valve approach: When the TT calls for heat yes 2 wire is fine it tells the zone valve for its zone to OPEN. When the zone valve is fully open it in turn tells the circulator pump to start pumping. There is an "end switch" in the zone valve that performs this second function.
So you'll find a pair of wires from TT to the zone valve and a pair of wires from the zone valve to the circulator relay. Watch out though: the wiring connections can vary a bit among zone valve brands - if all of yours are the same brand you can look at the existing valve, follow the wires, and you'll see how the zone valve is hooked up. If there are different brands you'll need to ask for a clue from your HVAC supplier or the manufacturer. Dan, thanks for the information. So I effectively have two circuits to connect.
One 24v circuit runs in series as follows - transformer, zone valve, thermostat, transformer. Please can you confirm this. The other circuit is simply connecting the other two wires on the zone valve to the connections on the circulator relay. For the first circuit, do you know where my transformer is likely to be located? I have the box on the front of my furnace which contains controls for how hot the water gets and when it needs to be heated.
Would it be in there? For the second circuit to the relay, I'm assuming the relay is attached to the circulator pump itself.
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Apologies for the delay. Just ask us! The application that we have is residential, but was originally installed when the house was built 29 years ago. It's a good system but we are trying to improve costs and new procedures develop with time.
There are no special heating needs or requirements. Thanks for all of the information it will help us in making a decision. Probably one thermostats at a time. Dennis: thanks for the follow-up. As I noted, unless the valve mechanism itself is damaged, you can just change the power head - leaving the actual valve assembly in place.
Quoting the product literature:. Easy servicing because the entire powerhead assembly can be replaced without removing valve body from line. Optional accessory fittings can be provided to facilitate convenient removal of the entire zone valve unit. When changing the thermostat, there are some models that can be wired to operate either type of zone valve: normally closed or normally open. It's not clear to me that the added heat from the 40VA transformer wiring that powers this zone valve would normally be sufficient to contribute to the product's failure in the field.
Watch out : however, for wiring errors, short circuits, or a misbehaving low voltage transformer. Those defects could contribute to zone valve failure, as might corrosive or mineral-laden water in more rare cases. On by mod replacement Sparco PowerTrack zone actuators from Honeywell.
Trevor, Forgive the slow reply - we've been swamped with questions. If the failure is the actual valve and not the motor then to repair these you'll need to - cool down the heating system turn it off and wait - drain off pressure and water from the lines enough that the piping in the area of work is empty so it can be soldered open the boiler drain, using a hose to direct water to a safe drain location - disconnect andlabel the zone valve wiring connections - with POWER OFF - cut out and sweat in new valves - re-fill the heating system assuming it's a water-only system - get the air out of the heating pipes so you won't be air-bound Search InspectApedia.
On by Trevor - how to replace Sparco PowerTrack zone actuators broken into pieces. Here is another pic of the system, any insight someone could provide on changing my zone valves and the steps I need to do to pull it off would be so appreciated! I have 4, old, Sparco PowerTrack zone actuators on my system that are literally broken into pieces. I have no experience with boiler systems but no how to sweat and do copper plumbing.
Can I just cut out the old actuators and install the new zone valves on my own? Jon Green, Thanks for pointing out the operation of the WR Zone Valve About the "why" of requiring electrical energy to close the valve when the thermostat is satisfied, I'm embarrassed to pretend to second guess WR's engineers who certainly know more about it than you or I, but maybe the idea was to make an inexpensive zone valve that would close more-reliably than a spring-operated valve.
Among zone valves are models that are NO - Normally-Open, and use a current to close the valve NC - Normally-closed, and use a signal to open the valve and the WR type zone valve that uses current both to open and to close the valve. This excerpt describes the operation of the White Rodgers As the thermostat calls for heat, the valve motor is energized and begins to open the valve. This contact provides a holding circuit to prevent the valve from stopping part way through its cycle if the thermostat is changed to the satisfied position.
When thermostat is satisfied, the valve motor is again energized. These valves require thermostats to send current to the valve to turn it on,, but then the valves require current to the opposite wires to turn the valve to the off position.
Just stopping current to the "ON" position will do nothing as the valve stays open. Therefore a simple 2 wire thermostat will not work without a relay to send current to the off wires when the thermostat turns off, or a special thermostat that sends current one way when heat is on, and current through another wire to turn the valve off.
Why would anyone want a valve like that, instead of a spring or mechanism that just turns the valve automatically to the off position when the thermostat turns off? On by mod - diagnose zone that sometimes does not open. Anonymous, I would look first for a loose electrical connection and second I would consider replacing the zone valve actuator or motor that may be sticking or failing. I have 3 separate zone valves in my home. At times it seems to be working normally; but at other times It will not call for heat until I turn the thermostat up for another zone valve.
I have made the mistake of removing and tossing a part whose function I couldn't understand. Usually people don't go to the trouble of installing a valve or control unless it was needed. But yeah, there can indeed be a "left-over" control from discontinued equipment or devices.
I have a boiler in an extension that provides hot water to the kitchen and extension. The hot water and CH central heating in the original house are provided via a 22mm feed from the boiler via a Dunsley Nutraliser to the house radiators and bathroom hot water. All this works fine. All radiators have thermostatic valves to control the heat in individual rooms. However, the 2 radiators in the extension are tapped off the 22mm feed to the main house and have a 2 port Honeywell Motorised Zone Valve in the loop not in the 22mm.
This seems to have stopped working as the radiators were cold even with the Thermostatic Valves fully open. Head has been removed and valve now moves very freely using very little finger force. Checking the wiring 5 wire against a wiring diagram the orange wire goes to a connecting block but no further. This was a professional installation not DIY. My understanding is that the orange is normally intended as a feed to tell the boiler to fire. However the boiler fires fine and must be getting signals fom other valves within the boiler itself.
What is the point of this valve in the extension radiator loop as it just seems to get a signal to open from the controller, take a few seconds to open and then stay open until the programmer switches it off and the spring closes it?
Seems to be an unnecessary component in the system. Typically the zone motor or actuator, properly, the "zone motor assemblhy" including the White Rodgers models can be removed without interfering with piping but if it's the valve itself I'd expect to turn off water and remove pressure from the zone. In order to change out a White Rogers Spin on or Twist On Zone Valve do you have to turn off the water or can you simply take off and twist on the new one? Thank you. I have gas fired boiler laars mini therm jvs model and when one zone calls for hest boiler makes sound like plane passing by over the house but when two zones are calling for heat boiler runs fine snd the noise goes away.
Do i have flow issue. Any advise is appreciated. You may need to clear or refresh your browser cache to see the updated page. We welcome your further photos, comments, questions. Jay, Check to see if the circulator is being turned on. If not then I suspect the zone valve end switch isn't working.
If that's the problem you'll want to replace the zone valve head. On by mod - zone valve opens but boiler doesn't turn fire up. On by mod - one problem zone valve opens when I adjust the thermostat but the hot water only flows to the valve. If you're confident that the valve is opening then I suspect that zone is are bound. Use the on Page search box to look for our article series. I have a four zone one circulator pump hot water system.
Three out of the four zones are working correctly. The one problem zone valve opens when I adjust the thermostat but the hot water only flows to the valve and a little beyond then the line starts cooling down and I have no heat in that area. Could my circulator pump be bad although the other three zones are working? Miriam Indeed when your boiler hot water heating system or "hydronic heating boiler" is also used to make domestic hot water for washing and bathing the boiler will run form time to time to keep its temperature high enough to produce domestic hot water.
So that's normal. I have my thermostat turned down lowest it can go but the furnace keeps coming on, It heats hot water. The room temperature is 22 C and yet the thermostat is down all the way. Should I move the switch from auto to manual on the zone valve. Nikki Is your boiler also making domestic hot water via tankless coil or an indirect water heater?
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